The spectacular island, lagoon and reef of HDh Nolhivaranfaru is home to some of the most stunning sunsets, mesmerizing beaches and a beautiful mangrove. This island which experienced population consolidation in the past with people of HDh Faridhoo, Kunburudhoo and Maavaidhoo, is also the resting spot of the Atoll Chief of Northern Atolls in the 16th century Edhurukaleyfaanu. Our focus today is on the Bodukulhi of Nolhivaranfaru.
Sikundi Kulhi, found in Shaviyani Milandhoo, is a freshwater body with a total area of 11,700 m2. The kulhi gets its name from the abundant amount of freshwater shrimp (dingaa) found in it. Locals refer to the shrimp as ‘sikundi’, which led to the name Sikundi Kulhi.
From the moment you enter the vast lagoon of Kelaa, to when you close in on the neatly lined palms gently swaying a welcome to you, Kelaa never fails to astound a visitor. The mangroves that run along the rocky beach (futtaru) of Kelaa just adds to the already incredible biodiversity, beauty, and history of this island.
At a total area of 162,433 m3, Kelaa’s mangrove system is one of the biggest kandoofaa (small leafed orange mangrove areas) in the Maldives. Besides the small leafed orange mangrove (Dhivehi: Kandoo, Scientific: Bruguiera Cylindrica), the other dominant type of mangrove present here is the Ornamental Mangrove (Dhivehi: Bodavaki, Scientific name: Bruguiera Gymnorrhiza). In addition to Kandoo and Bodavaki, this mangrove system has pockets of Black mangrove (Dhivehi: Burevi, Scientific: Lumnitzera racemos), Loop Root Mangrove/ Red mangrove (Dhivehi: Randoo, Scientific: Rhizophora mucronata) and Mangrove Apple (Dhivehi: Kulhlhava, Scientific: Sonneratia caseolaris).
The use of kandoo as a food source in Kelaa has an interesting history. While it has always been a source of food in Kelaa, kandoo gained particular importance during the Second World War. The effects of the war reached Maldivian shores in the form of extreme food shortage which resulted in a big famine, locally referred to as bodu thadhu. During this time, islands with kandoofaa were among the most food secure populations, Kelaa among them. While the majority of the country was starving, having an abundant supply of kandoo made the people of Kelaa and surrounding islands much more food secure. Dried breadfruit was also used as a staple food source due to its abundance on the island. Kandoo is eaten even today, but is consumed more rarely as a delicacy.
With kandoo being so closely linked to food security, there were strict regulations for how people could interact with Kelaa’s kandoofaa. In the past, the island office regulated the kandoofaa area and oversaw the harvesting of kandoo, which was limited to only Wednesdays and Saturdays. The women of Kelaa would go in groups to collect kandoo in their palm leaf baskets (vashi). From there, the baton was passed to the men who would transport the collected kandoo from the mangroves to the community food storage (Rayyithunge Card ge).
As per island regulations, half of what was collected had to be donated to the community food storage. Only then could the collectors pocket the remaining half. From the Kandoo that people got to take home, usually by the end of the month each household would be able to save 1 bag (1 basthaa) of Kandoo per month after having used it as their main food.
Each month, locals and people from nearby islands would gather to Kelaa to participate in peeling the skin of the kandoo (this is known as kandoo kehun). This particular day would be allocated in advance, and was an event that locals took very seriously. A special knife (kandoo valhi) with a long handle and a very short blade was used to peel the Kandoo.
Of course, one could not come empty handed to take a share in the bounty of Kelaa’s kandoofa. People from neighboring islands would bring gifts such as garudhiya and dried fish (speciallly bandaidhoo). In return, they got some kandoo and stems of papaya trees to take home to their families. Times were so hard that some there are some local accounts of Vashafaru people saving even the peeled skin of kandoo. They are said to have asked for the peelers to not mix the peeled skin with the soil. Instead, they were saved and taken back to Vashafaru where food was so scarce that even the skin of kandoo was valuable.
Mangroves were not only an important food source, but the large old trees could be sold as hardwood timber to build the hulls of boats. The ones with long and straight trunks are used as push poles (rih dhandi) by smaller boats (bokkuraa/fathiyaa). It was also used to build the roods and as timber columns at residential houses as it is a durable hardwood. Since mangroves were such a huge source of food security for the local populations, logging of mangroves for any purpose without permission was considered to be a crime.
Kandoo harvesting and cooking in itself is quite the process, and on an island like Kelaa with abundant Kandoo, the locals have mastered the art of preparing it.
Raw kandoo is tough and bitter in texture and taste. To make it edible, peeled kandoo is first covered in Breadfruit leaves and a small ball of ash and is boiled in water. Kandoo is usually boiled continuously until it softens and the bitterness disappears. During the preparation, water is added as it gets boiled off to ensure that the kandoo is ready. After this, the kandoo is washed 6-8 times until some color and all the bitterness are gone for good. After this, kandoo is then dried in the sun for a few days before being stored in bags. Stored kandoo can keep for about a year, and some used to be sent to Male’ to be sold (Male’ not having any mangrove areas, this was a good market).
Once the kandoo is prepared, it is eaten with garudhiya (fish soup), grilled fish, freshly grated coconut along with lime, chillies and sliced onion as condiments. Kandoo takes the place of what would usually be plantains or rice.
The effort that goes into the preparation of kandoo even inspired a Dhivehi proverb: “Emeeheh kehi kandulugge hithi filuvaanee emeehekeve.” This directly translates to “You are responsible for removing the bitterness of the kandoo you pick”. This saying is used to imply that if you begin something, you must stick with it till the end.
Today, due to the availability of rice at a cheap price, locals have stopped harvesting kandoo. The importance of kandoo as a food source has diminished in Kelaa, and the kandoofa has experienced overgrowth in recent years. As a result, the quality of trees has lowered and now the kandoo trees do not bear enough fruit (kandoo).
During the second world war, the RAF base was built near the kandoofa and elders recall that the soldiers hung boxes full of oil-like liquid in the kandoofa. It was said that these liquids were hung to repel mosquitoes, but this had a negative effect on mangroves. Some trees were killed and most of the trees became weak and, according to the elders, seem to not have recovered since.
The history of the kandoofaa of Kelaa shows the important part mangrove forests have to play during a food shortage. Indeed, they saved the people of Kelaa from bodu thadhu and could save them again during famine. In this way (and many others), kandoofaa is an important natural resource that must be fiercely protected in the interest of our food security as a nation.
The research for this post was made possible by the collaboration of IDEAS with Mangroves For the Future (MFF) project and UNDP Maldives.
According to the locals, Nadella used to have a mangrove area that was reclaimed for the construction of the harbor. In the absence of a living mangrove area, our team instead surveyed a large wetland area with a muddy bottom. We felt that despite there being no mangroves, the incredible biodiversity and natural processes present there needed to be documented.
The wetland area/kulhi is called Gonaanigili Kulhiya. according to the locals, reed (haa/hau) used to be grown there. These local materials are used for traditional mat weaving. Today, there are very few reeds present in the area.
The wetland area consists of a large fresh water body with clean and drinkable water. The main types of trees found there are kashikeyo (Pandanus odoratissimus) and dhiggaa (Hibiscus tiliaceus L.). During our trip there, we were able to spot many kinds of birds including maakana (Grey Herons, Adrdea cinerea – rectirostris), huvadhoo raabon’dhi (Maldivian Pond Herons, Adreola gray – phillipsi) and kan’bili (Maldivian Water Hen, Armaurornis phoenicurus).
This is an area where the effects of iruvai moosun (north-east monsoon) and hulhungangu moosun (south-west monsoon) are very apparent. During the rainy south-west monsoon, flood waters are very common in Nadella, and the water makes its way to the wetland area which acts as a reservoir.
In contrast, the dry north-east monsoon causes the water to dry out, exposing the mud layer below. The water table in this area is fairly shallow, only at 0.5 ft blow the natural ground level!
From our observations, we drew two main conclusions – 1. this beautiful natural wetland area can be developed into a natural park area for locals and visitors to enjoy and appreciate its beauty, and 2. the common occurrence of floodwaters during stormy weather calls for a proper storm water control system for Gdh. Nadella.
And that concludes our trip to Gdh. Nadella. Join us on our State of the Mangroves trip further up north next time!
The research for this post was made possible by the collaboration of IDEAS with Mangroves For the Future (MFF) project and UNDP Maldives.
IDEAS Kelaa, in partnership with Hoadehdhoo Island Development Society (HIDS) and Nadella Island Development Society (NIDS), is currently conducting surveys of the mangroves of G.Dh Hoadehdhoo and G.Dh Nadella for an ongoing Mangroves For the Future project. The following outlines our findings in G.Dh Hoadehdhoo which has 3 wetland areas.
Reyre fengandaa is named after the bird Reyru (Garganey, Anas querquedula), which is a species that used to be abundant at this site.
Reyre fengandaa has two dominant mangrove species: Kan’doo (small leafed orange mangrove, Bruguiera cylindrica) and Burevi (Black mangrove, Lumnitzera racemosa). We were also able to spot newly planted Bodavaki (Oriental Mangrove, Bruguiera gymnorrhiza) species that seemed to be thriving.
Some of the Kan’doo trees we surveyed are quite old, with the oldest one measured having a tree trunk circumference of 950 mm and the tree height being between 6-7 m. Similarly, we spotted some very old Burevi trees – one with a trunk circumference of 700 mm.
At this site, a 10 x 20 m lake area without trees is present near the shoreline where the water level is 1.4 m deep. A thick layer of clay rests at the bottom, which creates a suitable environment for the significant amount of tilapia (futumas) found here. The clay at the bottom gives the water a murky quality which allows fish like tilapia to hide effectively from predators. Interestingly, Tilapia happens to be an invasive species to the Maldives, introduced as recently as 1964 by a Japanese research vessel that brought it from Sri Lanka as a bait fish. Today tilapia is widespread across the Maldives, especially so in mangrove ecosystems.
On top of the clay layer, we were greeted to the sights of many baby snails and crab holes. We were able to also spot a few crabs, ready to defend themselves and their positions.
During our time there, we rarely spotted any birds. The few that we spotted include huvadhoo raabondhi (Maldivian Pond Heron, Ardeola grayii (phillipsi), dhivehi kanbili (Maldivian water hen, Amaurornis phoenicurus) and hens and chickens. When speaking to locals of Gdh Hoadedhoo, they recounted a time just a few years ago when local birds were abundant in the area.
Today, plastic bottles have accumulated to the central area of the mangroves, and are kept in motion by storm water.
The second site we surveyed is called Ratu Meeha Kilhi, which is a large body of water with Bodavaki (Scarlet Mangrove, Bruguiera gymnorrhiza) trees found around the perimeter. Kan’doo trees were also present at this site, similar to the first one.
A special feature of this mangrove site is the fact that it is home to the only newly planted Randoo tree (Yellow Mangrove) on the island. We were pleased to see that it was thriving and growing fast.
At this site, the water is very deep at central area and has a very thick layer of clay. Again, similarly to site one, tilapia was widely abundant as were snails.
Regarding the final site, there is good news and really bad news. We will start with the really bad news first. According to the locals, the mangroves in this area died a few years back for unknown reasons.
During its prime, Kan’doo trees were abundant there. Kan’doo is known for its quality timber for boat building. As a result, a lot of the large Kan’doo and other mangrove species were cut down by locals removed for timber, and there is no evidence of reforestation efforts. Today, only dead trees and branches remain jutting out of shallow waters of only 100-200 mm depth on average.
To add salt to the wound, this area is slowly becoming a dump site. Additionally, due to its slow water flow and water containment issues due to waste, it is also becoming a mosquito breeding area. The waste dumped here can be found along the shoreline, which is in contrast with the image that the Maldives brand presents.
Now for the good news: this area is not a lost cause! Waste clean up and rerouting, coupled with mangrove reforestation efforts can go a long way. If site one and site two are any indication, these are not hostile habitats, unless we make them so. Planting other types of trees such as mango trees to improve livelihood is not out of the question either. The time is now.
In our conversations with locals, we found that the people in G.Dh. Hoadehdhoo were true protectors of these mangrove sites in the recent past. They remember a time when the islanders would remove a certain amount of mud to maintain a specific water level best suited for growth. They also used to harvest bang for small scale commercial purposes, bringing activity to the area.
G.Dh. Hodehdhoo has a memory and culture of protecting these areas, and we at IDEAS in collaboration with HIDS are working together to instill these beautiful values again. Their knowledge of the mangrove systems and the areas specific to their island is valuable, and we hope to preserve and enhance this knowledge for locals to benefit from and build a connection to their beautiful environment.
One of the ways in which we believe this can be done is through a new approach to how we use and interact with this space. These mangrove areas can be given a new value either for livelihood purposes or as a park for locals to enjoy. This way, these areas will be protected while at the same time providing a benefit for locals – symbiosis at its best.
Our findings in G.Dh. Hoadehdhoo convinced us more than ever of how unique each mangrove ecosystem is. Even within one island, there were differences in the species diversity and density from one site to the other. Stay tuned for unique insights into the mangrove systems of G.Dh. Nadella next!
Mangroves are specially adapted plants usually found where freshwater bodies meet ocean water. Most of the world’s mangroves are found in areas where the river meets the ocean.
The mangrove ecosystems in the Maldives are mostly situated around enclosed or semi-enclosed freshwater lakes on our islands. Maldives has the most diversity in mangrove species for tropical archipelagos in the region. Worldwide, there are 20 families and 69 species of mangroves, of which 8 families and 13 species are found locally.
Most mangrove areas are found in northern and southern atolls without any significant populations centrally. And of these atolls, most mangroves are found in the northern atolls. 150 out of our 1190 islands have mangrove systems, which is roughly 12% of the Maldives and amounts to an area of 1.4 km2.
What makes mangroves extra special is the fact that they can flourish in salty waters and muddy areas with little oxygen. This amazing adaptation is a great source of security for Maldivian islands that are surrounded by the ocean!
One of the main ways in which mangroves adapt to these unlikely habitats is through its root systems. The roots of mangroves are lifted above water into the air to get oxygen from air. Some mangrove species like Randoo (Rhizophora Mucronata or Red Mangrove) have roots like anchors and arcs, coming down from higher up the trunk. Kuhlhava (Sonneratia Caseolaris or Mangrove Apple) species have roots like pencils that rise up from the water, and Bodavaki (Bruguiera Gymnorrhiza or Scarlet Mangrove) have roots like bent knees. These special root formations are an easy way to identify some mangrove species!
When it comes to getting access to water and withstanding the salt, mangroves are again specially adapted. Randoo filters out the salt right at the roots and only take up fresh water, while Kuhlhava uses their leaves to filter out the salt. It is possible to find traces of salt which have been filtered out on the back of the leaves. Moreover, some of the salt is also gathered to older leaves and branches so when they fall off the tree, the salt leaves too!
Mangroves provide a lot of ecosystem benefits, the first of which is providing stability. This comes in the form of their extensive root systems holding the soil in place, stabilizing shorelines and also acting as a barrier to wind and waves.
In addition to this, juvenile fish find sanctuary within the root systems and spend most of their young days in mangroves before heading out to the coral reefs! Mangroves are a detritus-based ecosystem, which means that their leaf litter provides the nutrients needed for related aquatic and terrestrial food webs.
Mangroves are also famous for their crabs. Kandoo Kakuni is in fact the largest land crab in the Maldives. Moreover, mangroves systems are home to diverse bird populations, which receive safety, food, water, and nesting areas there. Mangrove flowers act as an attractor for butterflies and bees – making mangroves extremely ecologically diverse and a beauty to behold!
Check out our facebook page every Monday to learn more about Mangroves through fun facts in our #MangroveMonday series!
Written by Hulwa Khaleel
Photos by Adam Saaneez
References
MEE. (2017). State of the Environment 2016. Male’, Maldives: Ministry of Environment and Energy
MHHE. (2003). Faathah. Male’, Maldives: Ministry of Homeaffairs, Housing, and Environment.
